Trekking the archipelago

Walkers take home an image from the archipelago they can never quite describe: pink granite — almost orange at sunset — rising from maquis of myrtle and strawberry tree, with intense blue sea suddenly appearing beyond every ridge. It is not a backdrop: it is the structure of the landscape. Granite is what the islands are made of, and trails cross it in ways no boat can.

Hiking in La Maddalena and Caprera means understanding the archipelago from a different angle than the sea: the islands’ shape from inside, wind direction on the crests, sound changing as you descend toward the water. It is a slow way of reading the land — closed shoes, no rush.

The trail to the Guardia Vecchia lighthouse is the most accessible of the significant routes. It starts behind the La Maddalena town centre and climbs through low Mediterranean scrub — cistus, helichrysum, myrtle in flower until May — up to about 150 m above sea level. At the top, the still-active 19th-century lighthouse and a view that leaves no doubt about the archipelago’s geometry: islands arranged around La Maddalena in a way that seemed improbable until you saw it from above.

Allow about two hours round trip. There are no technical difficulties, but the ground is uneven and the descent needs care. Go early morning or late afternoon: in summer, midday turns exposed paths into something harder than a hike.

🥾 Hiking guide — Caprera island Caprera has 16 official trails, ideal for wild scenery, historic military sites, and hidden coves.

⚠️ Important: Because of the rough granite terrain, wear closed shoes (hiking boots or sturdy trainers).

🌟 Must-do routes 🏝️ Cala Coticcio (Tahiti) The most famous trail — also among the most technical.

Access: In a fully protected area. Entry is capped at 60 people per day and you must be with an authorised environmental guide.

Route: Starts near Forte Arbuticci; about 40–45 minutes each way. Some exposed or slippery sections.

🌊 Cala Napoletana A moderate hike in the northern part of the island.

Route: From the Arbuticci fortifications. About 30–45 minutes through Mediterranean scrub to a very fine white-sand beach.

⛰️ Monte Tejalone The island’s “roof” (212 m) with a 360° view over the whole archipelago.

Details: Trail no. 07 is steep but short (40–45 minutes). The summit is reached by a final 115-step staircase, with remains of a military post.

🏖️ Cala Serena Ideal for an easy, relaxed walk.

Route: From Cala Garibaldi, about 15–20 minutes.

🗺️ Other routes Candeo trail: leads to Opera Candeo, a remarkable fortification blended into the granite.

Conigliera trail: moderate difficulty (about 1 h 30) with spectacular coastal views.

Cala Andreani – Punta Rossa: an easy exploratory walk in southern Caprera.

💡 Practical tips for 2026 💧 Facilities: No food or drink along the routes; carry at least 1.5 litres of water, a hat, and sunscreen.

📅 When to go: Spring and autumn are ideal for mild weather. In summer, start at dawn.

📲 Bookings: For Cala Coticcio and Cala Brigantina, book well in advance on the national park’s official portal. 📍 Official resource: 🗺️ trail map

🥾 When to hike in the archipelago Trails are usable year-round, with a different mood each season. For safety, always check the weather forecast and avoid hiking in strong wind, which can make granite footing unstable.

⚠️ Restrictions and protected access Sensitive coves such as Cala Coticcio have specific rules. Access is limited and managed to protect the ecosystem. For these areas — and generally for safe movement — use authorised park guides. They ensure compliance and add depth to the walk.

🌸 Spring and autumn: ideal climate April–June and September–October remain the sweet spot. Mediterranean scrub is at its most fragrant — myrtle, mastic, strawberry tree — part of the walk itself.

☀️ Summer: timing In July and August, avoid shadeless routes at midday. Start at dawn for cool air and light.

🍂 September: many people’s favourite Temperatures ease, crowds thin, and afternoon light gives unhurried hikes with clear views.

Safety: always check wind speed; for fully protected areas, book with an authorised guide to avoid fines and protect the environment.

Certified environmental hiking guides work across the archipelago and run themed walks: flora and fauna, military history, nature photography. For Caprera’s lesser-known trails — and for understanding what you are looking at, not only where you are going — a local guide changes the whole experience.